How To Cure Your Dog's Upset Stomach?

Normally dogs will eat grass to cleanse out their system - this is the natural method for curing your dog's upset stomach. However, at times this won't do the trick, or your dog won't even feel like eating grass. In this case it can help to give your dog a little bit of Pepto-Bismol or Pepcid crushed and mixed with water (the amount will depend on your dog's weight - consult your veterinarian). It is possible that the manufacturers of these products may change their formulas over time and they may not be as safe as they once were for pups so, as with any treatment, always consult a vet before proceeding with treatment. If you are concerned about the costs of treating your pet each time you visit the vet, you might want to consider pet insurance.

You could also take your dog's temperature. We recommend using a rectal  thermometer as it is the most accurate option. An ear thermometer is also an option but not as precise. A dog's normal body temperature should be about 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit. A temperature of 102 or higher is considered to be a fever. If the temperature is higher than 102 degrees or lower than 99 degrees, you should go to the vet or emergency vet hospital immediately to find out the cause.Note that the Pepto-Bismol or Pepcid may make your dog's stool darken quite a bit - this is not a reason for alarm.

Keep Your Pup Hydrated!

One of the most important things is to keep your pup hydrated at all times. This is especially important if they are experiencing diarrhea. With diarrhea, they may very quickly (within hours) become dehydrated, as they will lose water that they would retain under normal conditions.

Natural Ways To Cure Your Dog's Upset Stomach

If you prefer not giving your dog human medications like Pepto Bismol, and your dog won't eat grass to clear her or his upset stomach, there are other natural home remedies that can do the trick. However, these may not be the best cure for your dog, so make sure you check with your veterinarian before proceeding. Some natural home remedies include:

• Rice
• Boiled chicken (boneless and no salt added)
• Banana baby food
• Do not use hamburger meat - this is a fairly common recommendation on bulletin boards, but the fact is the meat is too greasy and will not help your dog's upset stomach (nor is it healthy for your dog).

No matter what you choose, however, make sure your dog stays well hydrated. The point of the grass is to make your dog vomit, to clear out whatever is upsetting his or her stomach. For more serious situations, your best bet is to limit food intake, keep getting your dog water, and take them to the vet.

What Did Your Dog Eat That Upset Their Stomach?

If you can find out what your dog ate, it may help the vet's diagnosis of your situation. One of the first things to look for is if any of your house plants have been eaten. Many house plants are toxic to dogs.

Changing Your Dogs Food Can Upset Its Stomach

So make sure you still have some of your dog's current food to allow time for the transition. Over the course of about a week, slowly start mixing in more and more of the new food into less and less of the current food until the transition is complete. Read our article on changing dog food for more specific details.

Go slow and keep an eye on your dog while changing food to make sure he remains healthy. Consult your vet if you have any questions during this process of changing dog food or run into any health concerns.

Hope Your Dog Is Feeling Better Soon

If none of these solutions work or you are very worried about your pet, please go see a veterinarian to help guide you through this difficult time. If you have other treatments that you have tried successfully to get your dog on its way to recovery, please share them below with a comment.

As dog owners ourselves, we know how difficult it can be to see your pup suffer so we sure do hope your dog is feeling better soon.

Why Do Dogs Get An Upset Stomach?

Although dogs will eat most anything you put in front of them, their stomachs don’t always agree to this free for all type of consumption. One of the most likely causes for an upset stomach is a change in diet. You can’t assume that they have eaten something unhealthy either. Sometimes they get an upset stomach from something as simple as a change in brands or flavors of dog food. If this isn’t the cause, you might start searching for another reason, such as an illness.

Dangers Of An Upset Stomach

Aside from the fact that our dog is likely to be uncomfortable and even in pain, the upset stomach may be a symptom of an underlying issue. Your dog may have something as mild as the flu or as life threatening as the Parvo virus. If your dog has a bacterial infection or a virus, they are likely to show other signs along with the upset stomach. Should the condition persist, the most dangerous threat is likely to be dehydration. This occurs when the body is unable to retain fluids. Water makes up around 75% of the body weight of dogs, but even consuming large amounts of water may not be enough to prevent dehydration in your dog.

Signs Of Dehydration

Dogs, and especially young pups are very susceptible to occurrences of dehydration, much the way humans are. If you notice that your dog has diarrhea or doesn’t seem to have an appetite or be interested in drinking his or her water, then your dog is taking the first step towards dehydration.

You can check to see if your dog is already dehydrated by assessing the appearance of his or her skin and gums. If you lift the lip of your dogs, the gums should be coated with a shiny wet film. If not, then he or she may be dehydrated. To check the skin to see if your dog is dehydrated, squeeze the skin behind the neck as if you were going to pick your dog up as his or her mother would. Release the skin. If the skin stays in the pinched position, your dog is dehydrated. If it automatically goes back to lying flat on the neck, your dog is not dehydrated. This is the same method used to check humans. If you’ve ever had someone pinch the skin on your hand and then watch to see if it goes back to its original form, you have experienced the same kind of dehydration test.

Prevent Dehydration

Don’t assume that you can prevent dehydration by offering water to your furry pet. Your pet also needs electrolytes and vitamins in order to retain fluids. One possible solution to this dilemma is to use Pedialyte. You can obtain a dry mixture made for animals by going to your nearest farming store. The packet is mixed with water, and then fed to the dog.

If your dog does not improve quickly though, do not continue to try self treating. Dehydrationi n dogs can quickly progress from a passing concern to one of possible organ failure and even death. So, please if your dogs symptoms last more than 24 hours, take him to the vet immediately for treatment.

Feeding A Dog With No Appetite

If your dog isn’t feeling well and you wish to feed it pedialyte or some other mixture that will help prevent dehydration, you’re going to need a syringe (without a needle) and a towel. Your dog isn’t going to want to be fed anything, just as you don’t want to eat when you don’t feel good. Because of this, you may need some assistance when feeding your dog.

After filling the syringe with the mixture to be used, lay the dog on its side. Open the mouth of the dog and use the syringe to inject the fluid down the dog’s throat. If the dog still doesn’t want to swallow the mixture, massage the throat to prompt the swallowing response. Another method is to inject the mixture inside the back of the cheek of the dog. Again, massage the throat as needed for swallowing. If you choose to use the cheek method, watch for liquid to come out the other side of the mouth as sometimes dogs will simply let the liquid drain out if they don’t have the energy or urge to swallow.

Train Your New Puppy At Home

Train Your New Puppy At Home Got a new pup? Unless you want him peeing all over the place, you'll need to train him. It'll be a huge relief to not worry about your dog going in the wrong spot. House training is an important part of caring for a dog properly and with some basic knowledge of what to do, you'll master it in no time.

Steps

Knowing About Dog Behavior

1: Understand dog behavior.

•  Most importantly, dogs do not know right from wrong. What a dog understands is "safe" and "dangerous". When your puppy comes into your house, he doesn’t understand that it is “bad” behavior to urinate on your carpet. As far as your puppy is concerned, the carpet is an extension of everywhere else he roams. It is also a warm and comfortable place to be, unlike the cold, dirty yard outside.
• You want to teach your dog that urinating or defecating in the house is unacceptable. You do this by catching your dog in the act––not after the behavior has occurred––but while the behavior is happening. Punishing your dog after the unwanted behavior has occurred can confuse your dog, making the house training process much more difficult. After your dog goes in the house, immediately take him outside and show him the correct place to go. Be kind and simply show the dog the preferred place––scolding now would just confuse the puppy.
• Never physically punish your dog. Not only is this cruel but it will usually instill bad associations and therefore bad behavior, like crawling under something to poop and hide it from you. It teaches your puppy to fear you, not to change natural habits.

2: Know nature's bladder boundaries.

• The age of your puppy has a bearing on the puppy's ability to be house trained and the amount of time you can take between potty breaks. A general guide is as follows:
• A puppy weaned too soon will have difficulties being house trained and will have many other problems too. House training between weeks 5 and 7 should occur within the litter environment, as many socially beneficial behaviors continue to be transferred during this time.
• Training between 8-16 weeks needs to be consistent. This is the time when puppies learn that they're either in a safe or a dangerous environment. Make your puppy's world a safe one and treat him to consistent, caring house training. Also accept that bladder control is poor for puppies in this age range and he may appear to know what's expected one day but let go the next. Do not take this as being difficult––it's simply the act of a baby still learning to control his bladder.
• By 16 weeks: A puppy can usually hold his bladder for up to four hours. (Prior to this, the bladder can withstand about 2 hours before the puppy must go.)
• At 4-6 months: Puppies in this age group can often seem "half" house trained due to their ability to be easily distracted. He's likely to want to explore the world, which means chasing a moth might prevent him from eliminating when you take him to his spot. By now, a puppy of four months can wait about four to five hours before needing to eliminate, while a puppy of six months can go as long as six or seven hours.
• 6-12 months: Sexual maturity can cause males to raise their legs and pee on furniture, while females can come on heat. The bladder can cope with seven to eight hours before eradication is needed again.
• 12-24 months: Depending on the breed, your puppy may not be an adult yet. Hopefully you've established house training well by now, but if not, you can still do so, even for adult dogs.

3: Note the breed of your dog. Larger dogs tend to be easier to house train than toy dogs, simply because the smaller dogs need to go more frequently (with tinier digestive systems).Smaller dogs can also get into places to eliminate where you may not notice or be able to find until a bad habit has been established. Be as assiduous with house training a toy dog as any other size dog and you'll succeed. Remember––nothing is cute about eliminating in the house, no matter how cute the dog, so don't assume small mishaps will just "go away".

Creating a Suitable Environment

1: Acquire a crate or "den". Proper housing is crucial to teaching the puppy that it's important to eliminate away from food and sleeping areas. A puppy unable to move away from these areas may learn very early on to eliminate "just anywhere" because that's all that was ever allowed. The crate also gives security––most dogs love curling up inside something that cradles them, just like a den in the wild. When you're about, leave the crate door open for going in and out as needed. When you need to confine your puppy, give both of you some time out or to ensure your puppy's safety, you can shut the door to the crate, happy in the knowledge that it's base camp for your puppy.

• The crate can be an airline type with a door or a simple laundry basket with a tray table lid hooked on. You can be creative, but basically, your dog must not be able to escape. Most pups and dogs will not eliminate in their crate.
• Use the crate for short-term confinement. When you need to go to work, leave the house for a while or perform an activity that you don't want the puppy getting caught up in, you can put your pup in the crate. When you come home or finish the activity, you can immediately take your puppy outside and not give him the opportunity to make a mistake in the house.
• As noted above, puppies under 16 weeks can only hold their bladder for up to two hours, while puppies over 16 weeks can go as much as four hours. Never crate the puppy for longer than these natural boundaries, or a mess will ensue!
• Using a crate is excellent for young dogs. At some point in your dog’s life, he will probably have to get into a crate. The vet, travel, and grooming visits all require your dog to get into a crate. It is better to get him used to one while he is young. However, note that if the crate is too big, the dog may still excrete in it. Dogs will not "go" in their immediate territory. Some dogs will go within 9 to 10 feet, and some will go within 3 to 4 feet. Make sure the crate is properly compact.

2: Choose a designated area for your puppy to "go" before bringing him home. This spot might be somewhere at the back of the yard, somewhere next to a structure like a tank that provides shelter from wind or some other suitable place in the garden. Wherever it is, have a firm commitment to it before getting the puppy, so that you don't create inconsistent messages by shifting his toilet around the yard while you make up your mind!

Developing a Schedule

1: Develop a schedule. Putting your puppy on a feeding schedule during the house training process can make your efforts much more successful. A puppy allowed to eat whenever he wants will make house training very difficult. Also, developing a schedule to take your puppy outside will make it easier on you. Always take a puppy outside within 15 to 20 minutes after meals, like clockwork.

• The most important thing of all when house training a puppy (or dog) is consistency. If you are consistent, and do the same thing and expect the same action every single time, your puppy will cotton on very quickly. On the other hand, if you chop and change your actions and expectations, your puppy will be confused and will do whatever seems right at the time, regardless of what you "want". Create good routine and ensure predictability.
• A puppy should be taken out immediately (to a prearranged housebreaking area outside):
• When he wakes up first thing in the morning (before, if you manage to get up before the puppy)
• After each and every meal
• After each and every nap
• Before he goes to bed for the night.

2: When you bring your puppy home the first day, start puppy housebreaking him immediately. After he has been briefly introduced to his home and new surroundings, give him a drink of water and immediately take him outside to relieve himself. Take the puppy to the area you chose before bringing him home.
3: As soon as your puppy finishes, praise him excitedly and immediately take him inside. From that point on, take the puppy to the same housebreaking spot each time and encourage him with a command such as "go potty," "hurry up" or whatever you choose. Once he starts, don’t say anything else. Once your pup is finished, praise and reward him immediately. You need to let your dog know that he is doing the right behavior. During the house training process, it is a good idea to take your dog out on leash. If you let your dog out into a fenced in area and you are not there, you will not be able to communicate to your dog that he is acting appropriately.

4: Be consistent using this single command only for the process of puppy housebreaking. This allows the puppy to associate this act with the exact command, which will be a huge help in the future, especially when in a new environment or location when traveling, visiting relatives/friends, etc. Being completely housebroken and completely reliable is the final outcome you are looking for.
5: Get everyone involved. If you live by yourself with your puppy, this step will be easy. If your puppy lives in a house with more than one person, make sure that everyone is taking the steps to make the house training process quick and easy. The closer everyone sticks to the plan, the faster the training will progress.
6: Take up the puppy's water early in the evening. Do not feed or water him after say, 6:00 at night, otherwise you may have to make more housebreaking potty trips than usual outside to let the puppy relieve himself.

Cleaning Away Messes

1: Clean up any accidents (and there will be plenty) quickly and thoroughly. Hardwood (and tile) floors should be wiped cleaned, and then sprayed with a disinfectant. Carpets need to be cleaned with a carpet cleaner. This is probably the most important step because dogs have such a great sense of smell. If they can still smell the urine they will continue to urinate in that same spot. This is also why you should have a designated area outside.
2: A lot of people get commercial cleaners at the supermarket. Many of these products contain ammonia. Ammonia smells like urine to your dog. So if your dog urinates on the carpet and you clean with an ammonia product, your dog will come back to that spot and think that a strange dog has gone on the carpet. Your dog will eliminate again on that same spot to cover it.
3: Commercially produced pet mess cleaners contain special enzymes that eradicate the urine odor that attracts the puppy back to the same spot. These can be purchased from pet stores, online sources, your veterinarian and discount department stores. They are the most effective means for removing, not just covering up, the odor.
4: Some people say that white, distilled vinegar and water work well. Follow up with baking soda, and vacuum up the residue when dry. However, don't be surprised if this doesn't do the job as nicely as you'd hoped––spending the money on the commercial cleaner is your best bet if this homemade remedy fails.

Increasing Unsupervised Time Gradually

1: Let your puppy be free in the house with supervision at first. Allow longer periods only when you are sure he will ask to go out when he has to go. This strategy should not take more than two weeks for him to get the picture.
2: Once your puppy is potty trained and is now going to the door and crying when he needs to eliminate, then he is pretty much potty trained. But remember––if you leave the house and there's no one to take the puppy out, he will have to go so urgently that he will find a place indoors and go. Don't get angry with the puppy. The same applies if you ignore the puppy when he is telling you that he needs to go outside. This is not the puppy's fault––it is mostly yours.
3: Don't be surprised by "reversions" to eliminating indoors just when you thought you'd house trained your puppy. This can happen for a number of reasons, such as sexual maturity, change of routine, curiosity overwhelming the need to go at the usual time, etc. Simply resume the consistent practice of removing the puppy to his usual elimination spot after meals, as outlined above and keep doing this for a time.

Leaving the Puppy Unsupervised

1: Have a flap door for your puppy. .If you have a proper fence (one that a puppy may not be able to get under or over) and a gate, then this method would be great. If by any chance you do not have a fence or gate, your puppy might run away or get chased by other big dogs if you have a lot of strays in the neighbourhood. Make sure you also don't have any holes going under the gate that another dog might have dug. Also be aware of wild animals that might eat your puppy such as mongoose, coyotes, etc.
2: Spread newspapers over in one corner for your puppy to urinate on. This method would be good for people with unprotected compounds. This is just in case the puppy needs to go and cannot wait for you to return home.
3: Have somebody look after your puppy on trips. Every once in a while we have to go on business trips or vacations. If so, you must have somebody looking after the puppy. If you live with your family or friends, have them look after him while you are gone. If your whole family has gone, have somebody who knows a whole deal about puppies come down and baby-sit. Tell him or her your schedule, where they sleep, what to feed them and what NOT to feed them, etc. Then go on your way. If not, drop them off at a kennel (a place where people look after dogs/puppies while you are gone.) Either one is a good choice.

Tips

• Watch your puppy like a hawk at all times, in the beginning of housebreaking especially. If you cannot keep an eye on your puppy for some reason, put him in a safe and secure puppy-proofed spot (such as a crate or some other small room with easy to clean floors, such as linoleum, closed off with a baby gate so you can peek in as needed).
• Leaving a puppy's food bowl out all day filled to the brim is a bad way to house train him (or keep him in shape). A puppy should be given 1/2 a cup of food and about 2 cups of water twice a day from weeks 1-15. as they grow, take it slowly. Don't rush from 1/2 a cup to 3 cups extremely quickly.
• Always reward good behavior with sweet talk and petting, ignore bad behavior as best you can.
• Placing him back in his kennel is not to be considered a punishment but is sometimes necessary, so do it lovingly and with sweet talk if you can. He will soon learn that good behavior gives him more time with you and will seek that above all else.
• If you are consistent in your puppy housebreaking in the very beginning, especially when it is inconvenient to you (late at night, while you are watching your favorite TV show, etc.), you will actually help the puppy housebreak himself to alert you when he "has to go."
• Most dogs will learn to associate a specific door with going outside. As a puppy gets older, he will usually go to the door to be let out. Each dog will develop whatever habit gets him let out. For some this is barking, for others running to the door and back to you, and others will scratch at the door (this should not be encouraged if you don't want to replace the door).
• Take the puppy to the same door everytime.
• When your puppy does its business outside (or where it is required to go), you might think you should ALWAYS reward your puppy with treats. This is not a good idea to constantly give puppies sweet treats; it will not be good for the puppy. But, if you are one of those people who thinks treats are the ONLY way to train it properly, you're not alone. A LOT of people think this. Instead of giving a puppy sweet treats constantly, give it chopped carrots instead. Carrots are healthier and help strengthen teeth. You can still throw In a sweet treat every once and a while. Don't always give treats either; it will start depending on you to give it treats every time it goes in the proper spot. Instead, reward with lots of "good girl" or "good boy" because you never run out of those.
• Dont get angry at your puppy because he won't understand this anyway. Remember to take the dog out for walks regularly and be kind to your new little friend and you will have a housebroken pup in no time!
• It has been suggested to have a small bell on a string hanging on the door knob. Every hour or so, take the puppy to the door and holding its paw to ring the bell, say "potty" each time, then take the puppy out to the designated spot to go potty. Within a short time, it should be ringing the bell to go out.
• If you need to eliminate a smell, pour about a teaspoon of vanilla extract on the area where the puppy has eliminated. The puppy will no longer be able to smell his urine and will not have the urge to urinate there again.
• If there is a lot of crying at first, try not to encourage it by giving him a lot of attention. You can move the crate beside the bed and dangle your hand to comfort the babe on those first few nights.
• Afterwards, a slap on the top of the crate and one firmly spoken "No" should let him know you're not pleased with the whining behavior. Try to tire him out so that you can get some sleep on the first few nights.

Warning

• Remember that your puppy will get used to your schedule. So even if you have the day off, you will still need to get up to take your puppy outside around the same time as usual. Dogs are solidly creatures of routine.

How to Prevent Mange in Dogs

How to Prevent Mange in Dogs

You may have seen a dog with patches of hair or sores on its skin, or had to deal with this in your own dog. Sometimes, this condition is caused by a tiny mite and is called "mange." There are several different types of mange, each as the result of a different type of mite. The mites can invade your dog's body and also reproduce in huge numbers on its skin, and cause an irritant or allergic reaction in your dog that results in severe scratching to relieve the itching, which leads to sores and bald spots. The outbreak can be in only specific places on your dog's body, such as the face and feet, or can be everywhere. Although mange cannot be totally prevented, it can be controlled if you are aware of the symptoms and are vigilant about obtaining and applying the correct treatment.

Steps

Traditional Aids to Prevent Outbreaks

1: Ensure that your dog has a healthy diet
2: Control all parasites regularly, such as fleas and worms.
3: Stay current on all vaccinations.
4: Treat with Hearworm medication daily (optional) if your dog is highly susceptible to mite infection.

Treatment after a Breakout - Sarcoptic Mange

1: Have your veterinarian do a diagnostic test by skin scraping or a biopsy of the affected area.
2: Plan to have your dog injected every 4 weeks with Ivermectin if tolerated by your breed.
3: Clip the affected area.
4: Apply a dandruff shampoo as directed by your veterinarian.
5: Use an insecticide dip recommended by your veterinarian, especially for the breeds (herding breeds) who cannot tolerate Ivermectin injections.
6: Apply a cortisone cream to relieve the itching.
7: Consult your veterinarian for topical antibiotics for any infected areas.
8: Treat all household pets with the same applications (as directed by your veterinarian) as these mites are transmitted to other pets and to humans.
9: Discard or thoroughly wash all of the animals' bedding, collars, leashes and any other materials worn by them.
10: Ensure that your dog and other pets have proper nutrition and exercise to fight off outbreaks and infections.

Treatment after a Breakout - Cheyletiella Mange

1: Have your veterinarian do a diagnostic test by skin scraping or a biopsy of the affect area.
2: Discard or thoroughly wash all of the animals' bedding, collars, leashes and any other materials worn by them.
3: Treat your dog with an insecticide dip according to instructions from your veterinarian (this type of mite is often associated with kennels).
4: Ensure that your dog and other pets have proper nutrition and exercise to fight off outbreaks and infections.

Treatment after a Breakout - Demodectic Mange

1: Have your veterinarian do a diagnostic test by skin scraping or a biopsy of the affected area.
2: Clip your dog's hair around the affected area.
3: Apply a shampoo that includes benzoyl peroxide as an ingredient to clear up any infection and access mites living in the hair follicles.
4: Dip your dog in an insecticide dip each or every other week.
5: Treat with Ivermectin injections or Heartworm medication as recommended by your veterinarian.
6: Discard or thoroughly wash all of the animals' bedding, collars, leashes and any other materials worn by them.
7: Ensure that your dog and other pets have proper nutrition and exercise to fight off outbreaks and infections.
8: The mite that causes Sarcoptic mange can be transmitted to humans; however, the mite cannot reproduce on humans. It may cause terrible itching on specific areas of the skin; however, the mites will die off and the symptoms will subside within about 3 weeks.

Tips

1: There are certain breeds of dog, such as boxers, who are more susceptible to mange than others; therefore, when thinking about getting a new puppy, ask your breeder about the incidence of any types of mange for the breed or do your research online or with your veterinarian.
2: Those who are more apt to use natural cures believe that vaccines can lower a dog's immune system and recommend a more holistic and natural approach instead of the steps outlined above. The Internet can provide you with links for information on this treatment.

Warnings

• Consult your veterinarian for the best treatment for the type of mange seen in your dog. Not all mange mites react to all treatments and some breeds of dogs cannot tolerate some treatments. Never use any medications or treatments without your veterinarian's approval.
• It is important to treat any type of mange immediately because the mites multiply quickly and your dog's immune system and ability to fight them is compromised, after which your dog will become susceptible to other illnesses and/or parasites.
• Be sure to check the labels on all home medications that you plan to administer to your dog. Some shampoos and insecticide dips cannot be used on pets under a certain age because they will cause illness and possibly even death. When in doubt, check also with your veterinarian.

Things You'll Need

1: Positive test results on your dog
2: Insecticide dip
3: Medicated shampoo (dandruff shampoo or any containing benzoyl peroxide)
4: Injections recommended by you veterinarian
5: Cortisone cream (as recommended by your veterinarian)
6: Antibiotics (if necessary)
7: Large washtub or bathtub for dipping and/or shampooing

How to Diagnose and Treat Your Dog's Itchy Skin Problems

How to Diagnose and Treat Your Dog's Itchy Skin Problems

Diagnosing your dog's itching, scratching and chewing as a skin problem is the easy part. The hard part is figuring out what is CAUSING it, and then finding the right treatment! Below is useful information on how to solve this predicament.

Steps

1: There are many differing opinions as to the causes and treatments of what is now called an epidemic of canine skin disorders, the itching, scratching and chewing commonly referred to as "Summer Itch Hot Spots". The symptoms of canine Hot Spots are an itch so severe that the dog scratches and chews itself to such an extent as to lacerate and traumatize the skin, creating open wounds and severe infections. Because the etiology of the source of the itching is unclear, most treatments available now only treat the symptoms, infections, and trauma caused by the scratching, but do not address the itch itself.

2: These dog skin rashes are generally known as Hot Spots because these skin disorders are often associated with warm weather. Hot Spots are often diagnosed as Eczema, Pyoderma, or Seborrhea; allergies to fleas, foods, grass, mold, or other environmental substances; Pemphigus, Atopic Acral Lick Dermatitis, auto-immune disorders, thyroid problems, staph and yeast infections, and other skin disorders.

3: Itchy "Hot Spot" skin conditions must not be confused with mange or flea infestations, ringworm fungus, or hair loss caused by hypothyroidism, Cushings disease, genetically predisposed pattern baldness, rabies vaccine induced ischemic dermatopathy bald patches, or hormonally caused coat problems as a result of neutering. These are not "Hot Spot" itching and scratching!

4: Ringworm is not a worm, it is a fungus, causing itching, scabbing and hair loss in one or more areas on your pet. It is contagious and easily transmittable to humans and other pets. Treatment with a fungicide such as most athlete's foot creams is usually effective.

5: Demodectic Mange and Sarcoptic Mange are Parasitic Mite Infestations and can be diagnosed by skin scrapings. Fleas and Mange can be successfully treated with Insecticides.

Demodectic (Red Mange) is caused by small mites found naturally on most dogs but do not generally cause skin problems unless the dog’s immune system is compromised. This skin problem may be inherited because certain bloodlines in some dog breeds are more prone to Demodectic Mange.

Democectic Mange is not very contagious and is generally passed on to nursing puppies by the mother and is most noticeable around the eyes and mouth. Most breeders will not breed these dogs.

Sarcoptic Mange (Canis Scabies) is very contagious and can be life threatening for the dog. It can easily spread to other animals and humans. Steps must be taken to eradicate the infestation in the dogs entire environment as well as on the dog and on any other pets that may be exposed to the infestation.

6: Thyroid hair loss problems are not caused by itching, chewing, and scratching but by systemic hair loss, a type of Alopecia or Balding.

7: If your dog is experiencing an extended bout of itchiness and scratching to the point of damaging his skin, take him to the vet for a proper diagnosis.

8: Use prescribed medication for your pet according to your veterinarian's instructions, in order to control the itching and start the healing process.

9: Get a blood test to determine if your dog is allergic to anything.

10: Change your dog's food to a holistic/organic food that is high in protein and low in carbs. This removes the GMO corn source from his diet that may be causing a reaction. Most dog foods at grocery stores have a very bad mix of ingredients and feeding him this food is akin to giving him Frosted Flakes or Lucky Charms cereals for each meal.

Symptoms

• There does not seem to be a consensus as to the cause of "Hot Spot" canine skin disorders but they do have a common set of symptoms.
• It appears that some dogs develop an itch so severe that the they chew and scratch and traumatize themselves to such an extent that this process causes open wounds, infections, loss of hair, and sometimes roughening of the skin (elephant hide).
• The most common areas of irritation are around the back and tail, the abdomen, and the legs and paws. These symptoms seem to be more prevalent in warm weather and mild moist climates like the sun belt in the United States but are known world wide as far north as Alaska and as far South as South Africa and New Zealand. Research has shown this canine skin problem is world wide and affects many millions of dogs.
• Statistically, no one breed of dog appears more or less likely to develop "Hot Spots", and mongrels are just as likely to develop a "Hot Spot" skin condition as is a pedigreed show dog. Age also does not seem to be a factor, puppies can develop "Hot Spot" skin problems as early as a few months of age, and geriatric dogs may suddenly show signs of "Hot Spots" when they have had no previous history of any type of itchy skin conditions.
• At this time there are a growing number of researchers that believe there may be a connection between the over-vaccination of the domestic dog population and the Epidemic of "Hot Spot" skin disorders. #2
• Quite often, a dog’s skin problems become more serious and the dog may be ostracized by the family and even other pets as the skin problems become more visible and the dog’s skin may take on a very unpleasant odor. This can lead to the dog suffering serious depression that in turn aggravates the situation. Obviously, dogs feel the stress of being rejected in much the same manner as a human would.
• Unfortunately, many dog owners at this point in time, may be faced with the heartbreaking task of choosing to have their dog euthanized to end the dog’s suffering rather than continue expensive and painful treatments that have not been successful in controlling the dog’s skin disorder . According to a recent survey of Animal Control Facilities many dogs suffering from out of control skin conditions are brought to public animal shelters where they are considered to be un-adoptable and many thousands of dogs in these shelters are euthanized for this reason. Many other dogs are also euthanized by private veterinarians to alleviate the dog’s suffering under the same circumstances.

1: If your dog is experiencing an extended bout of itchiness and scratching to the point of damaging his skin, take him to the vet for a proper diagnosis.

2: Use prescribed medication for your pet according to your veterinarian's instructions, in order to control the itching and start the healing process.

3: Get a blood test to determine if your dog is allergic to anything.

4: Change your dog's food to a holistic/organic food that is high in protein and low in carbs. This removes the GMO corn source from his diet that may be causing a reaction. Most dog foods at grocery stores have a very bad mix of ingredients and feeding him this food is akin to giving him Frosted Flakes or Lucky Charms cereals for each meal.

Treatments

• Because of the differing opinions as to the cause of this serious skin irritation problem, there are many different treatments prescribed by the veterinary community. The first treatment of choice is the steroid Prednisone, which may temporarily relieve the itch and inflammation. The use of steroids is a severe treatment and can result in serious negative side-effects, such as kidney failure, over an extended period of use. An antihistamine may also be used to quell a reaction.
• The next order of treatment is usually an antibiotic or other treatment to fight infection because the dog has irritated the skin to such an extent that it is an open and infected wound. Analgesics and pain suppressing ointments may be provided as well. These treatments are only designed to treat the pain symptoms and infections and do not address the etiology of the problem or the cause of the itch. Some pain relief may be achieved but the itch remains and as soon as the pain relievers wear off the itch returns and the whole painful cycle begins again.
• Some veterinarians believe that "Hot Spots" are the result of a sensitivity or an allergic reaction to some substance. Allergy tests and treatments with antihistamines, changes in environments, and special diets, including specially formulated dog foods, raw food diets and supplements are often touted as the cure for "Hot Spots" but these treatments are inconclusive as to their efficacy and statistically these treatments do not appear to help with these skin problems.
• Over-the-counter remedies such as medicated or coal tar shampoos, Tea-Tree and Emu oil, Aloe Vera and other home remedies such as turpentine, petroleum jelly, mouthwash and vinegar are all part of a last ditch shot-gun approach to the problem that owners will often try in the hopes that something will work. Some flea shampoos will also further irritate open skin wounds.
• At this time there is no statistical evidence that any of the above treatments actually work to control the itch problem. While some temporary relief may be provided by some of these therapies, it is usually only temporary unless the itch syndrome is controlled. Many of these therapies can also be harmful and threatening to the dogs health.
• One can easily conjure up an image of a mad scientist, wearing goggles, a mask and rubber gloves, ‘treating’ an afflicted dog with useless shots, painful and dangerous chemical treatments, or shampoos so strong they advise against contact with human skin, then fitting the dog with plastic collars, taping the paws or putting on little gloves to prevent the dog from scratching and chewing itself raw. At this point you must ask yourself how you would feel if someone did that to you and then prevented you from scratching your itch?
• About 25 years ago Cornell University Veterinary School in New York did a study of Canine Hot Spot skin treatments to determine if any of the treatments available at that time were effective in treating this disorder. The study found that all of the standard medical treatments employed in the study were inconclusive as to their efficacy and that 30% of the dogs recovered from their skin problems with no treatment at all! These are basically the same treatments being employed today!
• This 30% recovery rate, with or without treatment, has given rise to a large industry of questionable alternative methods of treating this painful canine skin disorder. These alternative treatments are unsupported by statistical or scientific method as to their efficacy and are generally referred to in testimonials with little, if any, testing to back up such claims.
• It is estimated that Americans spend more than $100 Billion Dollars a year struggling with these dog skin problems and it is also estimated that more than 50% of the total veterinarian income in the Southern United States is derived from treating "Hot Spot" dog skin problems alone.
• However, don’t give up hope just yet! Recent scientific breakthroughs are giving real hope that there may be some actual relief in the future for the estimated 100 million or more dogs world wide that suffer from this painful problem. This research is published and readily available on the Internet by typing in search terms as - 'Canine Itch Treatment Research' or 'Alternative Dog Skin Treatment Research' on any major search engine.

Tips

• Don't use perfumed human shampoos; your dog may not be very happy with you if you do.
• Bathing is good for itchy skin, just don't use human shampoo. Human skin is acidic, dog skin is base.
• Don't over-wash: a bath once a month is all most dogs really need, some need even less.
• Try to use holistic/organic products to eliminate allergens from GMO corn used in standard dog food kibble.
• Look for a money-back-guarantee in case the product does not work as advertised.
• Do your research, the internet is a tool, don't be afraid to USE IT.
• Don't shave your dog's fur. Dogs have long hair for a reason and a close clip is about all they can stand, even in the heat of summer.

Warnings

• Don't be taken in by claims of cures without statistical back up; look for for more than product testimonials. Ask for information about products if the company is legit. They will be happy to provide you with scientific testing and statistics to back up their claims.
• Steroids and antibiotics should be a last resort, as they can cause serious side-effects.

Tail Chasing In Dogs

Tail Chasing in Dogs

Tail chasing, at first glance, may appear to be a normal component of play behaviour in dogs. Problems arise when such behaviour becomes excessive and the dog injures itself during the activity and when the dog cannot be distracted for other activities. Many would define tail chasing, or whirling, as a stereotypic behavior. Stereotypic behavior can be defined as a ritualistic, repetitive, constant sequence of movements appearing to serve no obvious function. Such behavior is often found in cases where animals are confined and where their behavior is restricted, but can be present in ordinary environments, as well.

Why Does Tail Chasing Occur?

The primary causes of excessive tail chasing often involve aspects of learned behavior or medical problems or both.

Behavioral causes: Attention-seeking, Boredom, Anxiety

Tail chasing and other stereotypic behaviors may be a result of operant conditioning, a process by which a behavior is affected by its consequences and an association is made between a stimulus and a response. Because dogs are social animals, attention from the owner is often a positive reinforcer causing an increase in the frequency of the performed behavior whether the owner intends this or not. Even adversive attention may act as a positive reinforcer of the behavior, especially when the animal receives little owner attention in the first place. In this case, any attention the dog receives is highly rewarding. This type of behavior is known as "attention-seeking behavior".

Boredom is another postulated cause of some stereotypies, but an unlikely one. A diagnosis of boredom as a cause of stereotypic behaviour can be incorrectly assumed. In fact the animal may simply have a greater need for aerobic exercise and will cease energy consuming stereotypic behaviour when activity is normal. It is not boredom per se that is the problem, but lack of exercise.

In addition, some dogs with anxiety may chase their tail as well. This anxiety may be in response to some sort of stimulus or it may be nonspecific. Sometimes if a dog has had a previous injury to an extremity, it may start chasing that region when it becomes aware of it. Such dogs are usually neurologically normal.

Medical causes: Neurological, Physical Injury/Irritation

In addition to the behavioral conditions mentioned above, neurological conditions can also cause behaviors such as whirling. Severe tail chasing has been attributed to psychomotor epilepsy and sometimes described as a seizure-related problem. There is also evidence that stereotyped behavior depends upon the dopamine systems involved in the control of movement. Dopamine turnover is increased in animals with stereotypies. This becomes important when drug treatment is to be considered. As well, there is a possibility that these behaviors may cause a release of endogenous opioids which stimulate the pleasure centers of the brain and protect the animal from perception of pain in more severe cases involving self-mutilation. In Bull Terriers, a breed that has been historically associated with dog fighting, it has been speculated that there may be a reduced pain perception, genetically passed on as an adaptation from the fighting generations. (Additional information on these neurological theories are discussed in the references cited at the end of this article).

A variety of superficial or peripheral conditions involving pain, irritation, or other sensations in the tail or hindquarters may also trigger tail chasing. Such conditions normally, however not exculsively, involve injury or disease to the skin and/or peripheral nervous system.

How Can Tail Chasing be Diagnosed and Treated?

Certain information will be required to assess the severity of the problem and help determine whether the tail chasing is learned or medical in origin. As an owner, you should keep track of the behavior and be able to describe details to a veterinarian including: duration, frequency, intensity of the behavior, as well as the dogs history and any other known cases in closely related dogs. Treating this problem can be handled through different methods depending on the suspected cause of the problem.

If you are certain the behaviour has been learned (perhaps it was inadvertently reinforced or rewarded by laughter or attention), then the treatment would involve removing the reinforcer. In this case the reward such as attention (praise or punishment) should immediately stop and be withheld anytime the dog tail chases. Initially the dog may increase the intensity of tail chasing to gain attention or gain the reward that had previously been given. It is important not to reward the behaviour. This is a critical stage leading to the extinction of the activity. It is important that all family members understand that non-reinforcement is vital and the tail chasing must be ignored at all costs. Any kind of attention or punishment will only escalate the problem.

Counterconditioning may also be an effective treatment for anxiety by again training the dog to associate an acceptable behavior with the stimulus rather than chasing its tail. In counterconditioning you would provide a reward or give attention to the dog when it is not tail chasing.

Neurological problems are best treated with medication. Studies have shown that some stereotypies are responsive to dopamine antagonists and to opiate receptor blockers. Various neurological conditions, such as psychomotor epiliepsy, can be ruled out or confirmed by observing the response to drug treatments.

Drug therapy in combination with behavior therapies have been proven to be effective in treating stereotypies including tail chasing. A veterinarian or behavioural consultant can provide more information on drug treatment as well.

Stereotypies generally are most responsive if they are treated during an early stage of development. The best results are obtained by identifying and removing the cause of the conflict, using an appropriate drug and counterconditioning. In some extreme cases tail chasing may be impossible to prevent or cure. The best prevention is to give your dog adequate attention and exercise, a suitable environment and carefully monitor its activities.

Getting A New Dog

Getting A New Dog

Are you thinking of getting a dog? Choosing to bring a new dog into your life is a major decision. Be sure you are ready for a dog before you start the process. It is also essential that you understand the cost of dog ownership. If you have decided that the time is right, congratulations! Now it is time to figure out what type of dog is right for you. There are several factors to consider before choosing a dog. Most importantly, examine your current lifestyle and consider what adjustments you are willing to make for a dog. Look at the needs of your family – especially if you have children or other pets. People with allergies, or those who prefer low-shedding dogs, might want to look into hypoallergenic dog breeds. Next, think about the ideal size, energy level and age of your new dog. Then, determine where to get your new dog. Just remember that getting a dog requires a firm commitment to responsible dog ownership. Here are some tips to help you choose the best dog for you and your family.

Sizes

You may already know you want a little lap dog that you can carry around. Or, you might have your heart set on a large or giant dog breed. If you cannot decide, then perhaps a medium sized dog is a good choice.

Remember that some small dogs are delicate and vulnerable. Being stepped on or mishandled can cause serious injury. Also, little dogs can be much more sensitive to colder temperatures, so be ready to help keep them warm. Don’t forget that small dogs need obedience training too! Some little dogs can develop “tough dog” attitudes, seemingly to compensate for their small size. Be sure you are prepared for this possibility.

Very large dogs need a bit more space to move around. Big, happy dogs with long, whip-like tails need "wagging space" to avoid tail injury or damage to household objects. Another consideration is expense: the larger the dog, the more expensive things like dog food, dog supplies and medical treatments become. Training is also a key factor here. If you get a large or giant breed puppy that is allowed to act like a lap dog when young, he will grow up to walk all over you – literally!

Activity Level

You probably already know that some dogs have more energy than others. A dog’s activity level is often determined by breed, but it does not mean you can rely on breed alone to determine how energetic your dog could become. Every dog needs routine exercise, regardless of breed or size, so make sure you can to provide this. If you know you can not commit to more than one or two casual walks per day, then you will probably be better off with a lower energy dog, such as a Basset Hound. If you are looking for a dog that can be a jogging partner, agility competitor or “disc dog,” consider a breed like the Border Collie.

Be willing to adjust the amount of exercise and attention you give your dog if necessary. A dog that is barking constantly, digging up your yard, destroying your home, or acting out in some other way is most likely in need of extra activities. Many behavior problems are the result of excess energy. Unfortunately, many dogs are given up or even euthanized because of a behavior problem that could have easily been avoided with the proper amount of exercise and attention.

Physical Maintenance

Your dog’s appearance has a lot to do with his maintenance needs. All dogs need basic grooming, but certain types need more based on the type of hair coat. If you get a dog with hair that keeps growing, then advanced routine grooming is essential. Most short haired, smooth-coated dogs are major shedders, so be prepared to do some extra cleaning up. Some grooming tools can help reduce shedding. Be aware that dogs with long, floppy ears are more prone to ear infections and require frequent thorough ear cleanings. In addition, certain types of dogs can do a lot of drooling. Many owners of Mastiffs, Bloodhounds and similar dogs actually carry a “slobber cloth” with them to wipe the drool. If they shake their heads – watch out!

Age

Puppies require the greatest amount of training and attention, especially over the first six months. Be prepared to dedicate much of your time to housebreaking and raising your new puppy. You dog will likely have plenty of accidents in the house and will probably chew your furniture and personal belongings. These problems will gradually resolve with dedicated training, but patience is a must. You should also be aware that your puppy might grow up to be different then you expected, especially if you adopt a mixed-breed dog. This is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

Adult dogs can be an excellent choice. An adult might be a better choice if you want to have a good idea of the true energy level, attitude, and temperament of your new dog. However, just because the dog is an adult does not mean he is trained, so you should still expect some degree of dedicated training at first. Fortunately, many adult dogs have been trained and socialized to some degree and can easily adjust to their new lives in their forever homes.

Senior dogs should not be forgotten! Welcoming a senior dog into your home can be a wonderful way to bring joy to the golden years of a dog. Unfortunately, senior dogs are less likely to be adopted and often end up living out their lives in shelters or being euthanized. A senior dog can make a wonderful companion if you are looking for a lower energy dog. However, it is important to know that your senior dog needs special attention, more frequent veterinary check-ups and is more likely to develop heath problems that cost time and money to address. Unlike a puppy or adult dog, you must know that you will not have as many years with your senior dog. If you are willing to accept the responsibilities, consider adopting a senior dog. It can be one of the most compassionate things you can do for these precious creatures.

Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog?

Purebred dogs are undeniably popular. Many people are attracted to a specific dog breed for various reasons. Perhaps you were raised around the breed or have spent a lot of time with the breed in your life. Maybe you really love the way a certain breed looks and acts. Or, you might feel the breed is right for you based upon what you have read or heard about the breed. If you want a purebred dog, be sure you thoroughly research the breed. Determine if you are willing to take on potential challenges with temperament, grooming needs and health problems. Make sure the breed will fit in with your family and lifestyle – including other dogs.

Mixed breed dogs can become wonderful additions to your world. The combination of two or more dog breeds can often balance out their personalities and physical characteristics. Just be sure to expect the unexpected, especially if you adopt a “pound puppy.” There is no way of knowing exactly how your puppy will look when grown up, and you cannot really predict health problems. However, many experts believe that mixed-breed dogs end up with fewer health problems than purebred dogs. Overall they tend to be good-natured and intelligent. Plus, adopting a mixed-breed dog usually means you are saving that dog from euthanasia or a lonely shelter life!

Where to Find Your New Dog

Once you have narrowed down your options, it is time to start looking for your new dog. There are many options out there, but some are better than others. Research the organization or person from whom you will get your new dog to determine if they are reputable. Then, go see the location where the dogs are kept to make sure your new dog comes from a healthy environment. Please consider dog adoption first. Here are some sources to help get you started.

Animal Shelters:

These can be great places to look for a new dog. Though lots of dogs in shelters are mixed-breed dogs, many times you can even find a purebred dog! Shelter dogs often have previous training and socialization, though others may unfortunately come from troubled backgrounds. Talk to the shelter staff members and volunteers about each dog you are considering to get an idea of background and personality. You can also try searching online adoption sites like Petfinder.com.
Rescue Organizations: Rescue groups are dedicated to finding the best families for homeless dogs, some are even devoted to specific dog breeds. Most rescue organizations keep their dogs in foster homes until they can find forever homes for them. These foster parents have usually forged a bond with the dogs and can tell you a lot about their history and personalities. Rescue organizations are typically very selective because they care so much about getting their dogs into the right homes, so be prepared to answer a lot of questions.

Reputable Breeders:

If you choose to purchase a purebred dog, be certain you find a knowledgeable, experienced breeder with a good reputation – not a backyard breeder or puppy mill. Ask your vet and other dog owners for referrals, or get a referral from a rescue organization recommended by a national kennel club, such as the AKC Breeder Referral Contacts. A responsible breeder should be willing to show you the premises and tell you about the parents’ histories. Be certain that the breeder’s home or kennel is clean and odor-free. The adult dogs and puppies should appear healthy and lively. If you are not comfortable with the breeder, do not purchase a puppy.

Precautionary Notes

Please, do not purchase your dog from a pet store. Tragically, these dogs are often from puppy mills. Though you might be “saving” the dog from poor conditions, you are supporting a terrible industry that should be put to an end. Some online kennels are actually puppy mills too, so do your research before doing business with an online kennel. Ideally, you should be able to visit the kennel first.

Be careful about getting your dog through newspaper ads and signs with statements like “free to a good home.” Unfortunately, these dogs might come from poor conditions and irresponsible dog owners. Not only might you end up with an unhealthy dog, you may also be encouraging inconsiderate people who do not spay and neuter their pets.

Making Your Final Decision

Once you think you have found the right dog, make sure he appears healthy. He should be bright eyed and lively with a shiny coat and good appetite. If the puppy or dog has special needs of some kind (usually due to physical or temperament issues), make sure you are prepared to handle them. Be aware that dogs or puppies that show signs of aggression, fear or other behavior problems will likely need extra training and attention from you. It does not mean that the dog is any less worthy of a good home, but it is best that you know what you are getting into. It is certainly not good for anyone if you have to return your new dog or puppy to the breeder, shelter or rescue group.

Before bringing your new dog home, you should obtain a new dog/puppy packet from the breeder or adoption group that contains general information about caring for your new dog. Make sure your home is prepared for a new dog. In addition, be sure to bring your new dog to a vet for a general examination right away. If you adopted your dog, know what to expect for the first few weeks. If you are getting a puppy, learn all about proper puppy care.

Congratulations on your new dog - I am sure you and your dog will enjoy a long, happy life together!

Famous Dogs & their Owners

FAMOUS DOGS & THEIR OWNERS

The names of the famous dogs might prove to be inspirational for anyone who is looking for a suitable name for a boy dog or a girl dog but a full dog names is also available for a really wide selection. Many US Presidents have also been proud owners of dogs and these are listed in a separate section to our dedication to famous dogs.

American Presidents and their Dogs

The famous dogs cover all sections of the dog community and achieve their fame from these areas:

• Famous Movie Dogs
• Famous TV Dogs
• Famous Fictional Dogs
• Dogs owned by Famous People and celebrities
• Famous Police Dogs

Their names and their stories are all detailed in this section. If you are looking for some inspiration for a dog's name for a new puppy perhaps celebrity dog names will provide you with the inspiration you are looking for.

Nipper - His Master's Voice

Nipper was the most famous dog recognised by millions of music lovers. The record label for HMV (His Master's Voice) featured a picture of Nipper listening to his master's gramophone - take a look at the picture at the top of the page which might stir a few happy memories!

Fluffy

Who can forget the three-headed dog who guarded the Philosopher's Stone at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry? Certainly not Harry Potter, Ron Weasley and Hermione Granger!

Toto - Dorothy's dog - The Wizard of Oz

Toto was Dorothy's dog in The Wonderful Wizard of Oz by L. Frank Baum. A mischievous dog portrayed as a Cairn Terrier in the movie The Wizard of Oz starring Judy Garland.

Lassie 

There have been many dogs called Lassie but the first Lassie a rough collie starred in the 1942 movie 'Lassie Come Home'. Lassie was played by several male dogs, despite the female name, because male collies were thought to look better on camera.

Bingo

Bingo is the name of the dog on the Cracker Jack box

Lady and Tramp

Walt Disney's family dog was a poodle named Lady. Perhaps this name was the inspiration for Disney's famous animated movie 'Lady and the Tramp'

Rover

In 1905 the first canine movie star was featured in "Rescued by Rover"

Max

The name of the dog from "The Grinch Who Stole Christmas" is Max

Crab - The Shakespearean Dog

The only dog to ever appear in a play by William Shakespearean was Crab who appeared in "The Two Gentlemen of Verona." To find out more about William Shakespeare visit the most comprehensive site on the great Bard - William-Shakespeare.info

Thisbe

The tragic Queen of France Marie Antoinette, who was beheaded on the Guillotine, owned a spaniel dog named Thisbe.

Pongo and Perdita - 101 Dalmations

Pongo and Perdita were the stars of the famous animated Disney movie -  101 Dalmatians. Pongo has 72 spots, Perdita has 68 and each of the puppies has 32 !

Blondi

Adolf Hitler's favorite dog was an alsatian called Blondi.  Adolf Hitler used Blondi to make sure cyanide capsules were lethal. Hitler then used the cyanide to commit suicide when he saw it worked on Blondi

Greyfriars Bobby

Greyfriars Bobby was a famous Skye Terrier immortalised in the Disney movie of the same name. In 1858 a man named John Gray (Old Jock) was buried in old Greyfriars Churchyard, in Edinburgh. This loyal dog slept on his master's grave for the next 14 years until his own death. A statue commemorates this most loyal of dogs.

Flush

Flush was the name of the dog owned by the English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning immortalised in the movie the ' Barretts of Wimpole Street ' starring Charles Laughton who played her strict father. Elizabeth Barrett was an invalid and confined to the house for many years. During this time she acquired a love of poetry and wrote the famous dog poem simply called ' To Flush, My Dog '. Her love of poetry lead her to meet another famous English poet called Robert Browning. They fell in love and married despite the objections of her father.

K9

A mechanical dog was given the name K9 in the cult British TV series Dr. Who. Originally intended as a children's program Dr. Who quickly became popular with adults thanks to K9 and, of course, the Daleks.

Bullseye - Fictional Dog from Oliver Twist

Bullseye was the famous dog belonging to the villain Bill Sykes dog in the book called Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens. The dog was vicious having been badly treated by Bill Sykes but nevertheless was loyal to his owner.

Nana - The Darling's Dog in Peter Pan

Nana was the Newfoundland dog belonging to the Darling Family in Peter Pan by J. M. Barrie. Nana howled to alert Wendy's parents that the children were flying away. Mr. Darling ignored the warning of Nana and was so remorseful at the loss of the children that he slept in the kennel in Nana's place until their safe return.

Quoodle 

Our favourite dog poem of all time is The Song of Quoodle by G.K.Chesterton - a real treat for anyone who has never heard of this poem. Gilbert Keith Chesterton, otherwise known as G. K. Chesterton was an English Poet and Journalist who lived between 1874 and 1936. He was educated at University College and was first published in 1896.

Balto - Siberian Husky 

Balto was the lead dog in the team of Siberian huskies who carried Diptheria serum 650 miles from Anchorage to epidemic-ridden Nome in 1925

Robot - The Lascaux Cave Paintings

Robot was the dog who discovered the cave paintings at Lascaux September 12, 1940. His owner was a young 17 year old French lad called Marcel Ravidat

Rin Tin Tin

Rin Tin Tin was one of the most famous and popular canine movie stars. Rin Tin Tin was always played by a German shepherd, or alsatian. "Rinty" was featured in a total of 24 Warner Brothers movies.

Suening - The Dog King

King Eystein who ruled Norway between 1104 and 1123 decreed that, as a punishment to his people, that a dog called Suening should rule in his place. Three years passed where Suening routinely signed decrees with with paw-prints!

Luath

Luath was the name of the dog owned by the famous poet Robert Burns. Robert Burns came from Scotland and lived between 1759 and 1796. He was educated at home and his father was a gardener and farmer. The most famous poems by Robert Burns were A Red Red Rose and Auld Lang Syne ! Robert Burns was a Dog Lover who wrote a poem dedicated to dogs called The Twa Dogs

Argus - Odysseus's dog

Argus (or Argos) was the name of a long-lived dog owned by Odysseus in the Odyssey by Homer. When Odysseus returns from his long voyages he wears the disguise of a beggar and only Argus his loyal old dog, recognizes him.

Anubis - Ancient Egyptian God

Anubis was an Ancient Egyptian god with a dog's (or a jackal's) head. Anubis was the God of the Dead and is usually depicted as a black dog with long sharp ears The black colour of Anubis is not natural to jackals or to the wild dogs of Egypt - it may refer to the dark discoloration of a body after death and during mummification.

Black Shuck - The Spectre Hound - The Baskerville Hound?

Black Shuck is the name of a legendary ghost hound said to haunt the ancient roads of Norfolk, England. Said to be the size of a calf with blazing eyes. This mythological ghost dog is said to have inspired Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and his famous book The Hound of the Baskervilles.

Cafall - Noble Dog of King Arthur

Cafall is reputed to be the dog who was owned by King Arthur of Camelot. Cafall was a mighty dog, brave, loyal and regal. The type of dog only a King such as Arthur was able to own.

Cerberus - The Hound of Hades

According to Greek Mythology Cerberus was a strange and fiercesome mixture of creatures - having three heads of wild dogs, a dragon or serpent for a tail and heads of snakes all over his back. It was the twelth labour of Hercules to go to the depths of Hades and kill Cerberus.

Boatswain - Lord Byron's Dog

Boatswain was the Newfoundland dog referred to in one of the Dog Epitaphs by Lord Byron

Scylla - The She-Dragon

Scylla, or Skylla, was a part-dog figure featured in Greek mythology. A She-Dragon with the upper body of a woman and the tail of a serpentine fish with the foreparts of six dogs for legs.

The Hound of the Baskervilles

The Hound of the Baskervilles, the terrifying killer dog portrayed by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle in the book of the same name. It is possible that he based the hound on the legendary Black Shuck of Norfolk, England.

Timmy

Timmy was the fifth member of the Famous Five in the Famous Five series of books by Enid Blyton.

Flash - TV Dog

Flash was the Basset Hound from The Dukes of Hazzard TV series.

Hachiko - Japanese symbol of loyalty

Each year on April 8th at a ceremony in Tokyo's Shibuya railway station dog lovers do homage to the loyalty and devotion of an Akita dog called Hachiko. Hachiko was the loyal and faithful pet of Dr. Eisaburo Ueno, a professor at Tokyo University. On May 21st 1925, when Hachiko was eighteen months old Dr Ueno died. The next day and for the next nine years, Hachiko returned to the station and waited for his master before walking home, alone.

Old Shep - Faithful American dog

Old Shep maintained a five year vigil at the train station in Fort Benton, Montana after seeing the coffin of his master loaded onto a train.

Pickles - The World Cup Dog

Pickles, discovered the Jules Rimet trophy under a bush in South London (the Football World Cup) after it had been stolen in England in 1966.

The Bandog

The Bandog is said to be a huge spirit-world mastiff with massive jaws from which flames appear. The Bandog was believed to guard treasure buried beneath the Rock of Dunamase, the stronghold of the Kings of Leinster, overlooking Portlaoise in County Laois in Ireland.

Bob - The Parliamentary Candidate 

In 1982 Bob, a Springer Spaniel, stood for Parliament representing "The Monster Raving Loony Barking Mad Dog Party". He was was owned by Lord David Sutch ( Screaming Lord Sutch).

Toby - The Richest Dog in the World

In 1932 the American millionairess, Ella Wendal left a record legacy of 75 million dollars in her will to her standard Poodle called Toby.

The Dam Buster Dog

Nigger was a black Labrador Retriever who belonged to the World War II Dam Buster Squadron Leader Guy Gibson who gave his dog's name as the codename to be used as the indication that the mission had been successful. The dog was sadly run over immediately prior to the raid and was killed. Guy Gibson ordered that the dog should be buried at midnight, the time that the raid was taking place.

Search and Rescue dogs - September 11, 2001 World Trade Center Terrorist attacks.

Over 300 dogs were brought into the site we now know as Ground Zero. The NYPD dogs were the first there.

Sirius - 2001 World Trade Center hero

Sirius was was attached to the Port Authority Police Department and was the only dog to lose his life in the search and rescue efforts following the September 11, 2001 World Trade Center Terrorist attacks.

Appollo - hero of NYPD K9 Search and Rescue team

Appollo, part of the New York police Department K9 Search and Rescue team was on the scene just fifteen minutes after the disaster.

Riva and Salty - Guide Dog World Trade Centre heroes

Riva and Salty were two guide dogs who saved their owner's lives just before the World Trade Centre collapsed. Riva and Salty guided their blind owners, Mr Roselle and Mr. Hingson down the crowded, smoke filled stairs from the 71st floor and were later honoured for their bravery.

Dogs in Space - Sputnik dogs

All of the Space dogs deserve a mention on any page dedicated to famous dogs. Five dogs tragically died during their flights.

Laika

Laika was the first dog in space on the Russian satellite Sputnik 2. This momentous event occurred on November 3rd,1957 at the height of the Cold war between Russia and the USA. It was a one-way trip as she burned up in the Earth's atmosphere on 4 April 1958.

Lisichka and Bars

Died during a test flight on July 28, 1960

Strelka and Belka

Safely recovered from a Sputnik launched August 19, 1960, it orbited the Earth 18 times. This was the first successful recovery of living creatures after an orbital mission. Strelka gave birth to puppies, one of them called Pushinka was presented by Soviet Premier Kruschev to President Kennedy. Pushinka had 4 puppies of her own puppies who JFK called “pupniks”!

Pchelka and Mushka

Died when Sputnik-3 re-entered the Earth's atmosphere in December 1960)

Damka and Krasavka 

Launched December 22, 1960 and the two dogs survived an unplanned suborbital flight.

Facts and Information

Amazing Dog Facts and Information

Check out these unusual and interesting dog facts and information! Interesting Dog Stats, or statistics, have also been included in this section. Learn about the wide range of dog facts and information. The largest, smallest, oldest and fastest - all amazing dog information and facts found here. Interesting information and facts about dog anatomy and development are also included!
Interesting Dog Facts

The World Record Breakers!

• The Greyhound is the Fastest Dog on Earth and can run 45 miles per hour for short periods of time

• The Irish Wolfhound is the largest dog breed

• The Great Dane is the tallest dog

• The Chihuahua is the smallest dog breed

• The St. Bernard is the heaviest dog breed

• The Worlds oldest known dog was an Australian cattle-dog named Bluey who lived to the age of 29 years and 5 months!

Amazing Dog Facts - Did you Know...

• Barking Sands Beach, on the Hawaiian island of Kauai, is known for its unusual dry sand that squeaks or "barks like a dog."

• Two dogs survived the sinking of Titanic

• The Great Dane breed of dog originates from Germany!

• At the end of the Beatles' song "A Day in the Life", an ultrasonic whistle, audible only to dogs, was recorded by Paul McCartney for the enjoyment of his Shetland sheepdog

• When a dog bays at the moon, it is following its basic instinct to call the pack together.

• Dogs are mentioned 14 times in the Bible

• Prairie dogs are not dogs - they're a kind of rodent

• The only dog to ever appear in a Shakespearean play was Crab in "The Two Gentlemen of Verona."

• Dalmatian puppies are pure white when they are born and develop their spots as they grow older

• The Poodle's "haircut" was to improve their swimming abilities. The pom-poms were left to keep their joints warm !

Interesting Dog Facts - Dogs and their owners - Some Amazing Facts! Canine Statistics

• There are approximately 68,000,000 dogs owned by people in the United States ranging from mutts, pedigree dogs, exotic dogs and those considered to be cool dogs!

"From 1970 to 2010, the number of dogs and cats in homes has increased from 67 million to 164 million"

                                                                                                                                                                                 Estimate Of HUSU's

• An American Animal Hospital Association poll showed that 33 percent of dog owners admit that they talk to their dogs on the phone or leave messages on an answering machine while away
• It is estimated that one million dogs in the United States have been named the primary beneficiary in their owner's will
• Approximately 1 in 3 households keep dogs as pets
• 36% of homes have dogs
• 85% of dogs visit an animal doctor in a year
• There are a total of 157 types of dog breeds recognised by the AKC (American Kennel Club). The Pedigree Dogs
• However, there are as many as 800 distinct breeds recognised by various groups world wide

The Top 5 favourite types of dog breeds in the US are:

1. Labrador Retriever
2. Golden Retriever
3. German Shepherd
4. Beagle
5. Dachshund

• The Labrador Retriever is the Number 1 type of dog breed in the USA, Canada and UK !
• According to a survey done by the American Animal Hospital Association 70% of people sign their pet's name on greeting cards
• Based on a life span of 11 years the average cost of owning a dog is $13,550

Interesting Dog Anatomy Facts - Some Amazing Dog Anatomy Facts!

• Dogs take between 10 and 30 breaths every minute
• A young dog has only 28 milk teeth
• A dog's heart beats between 70 and 120 times a minute, compared with a human heart which beats 70 to 80 times a minute
• A dog's temperature is between 100.2 and 102.8 degrees Fahrenheit
• Dogs do not sweat by salivating. They sweat through the pads of their feet.
• Female dog bites are twice as numerous as male dog bites
• The Chow Chow dog has a black tongue
• A dogs sight is better than that of a human in dim light
• Dogs have a visual range of 250 degrees compared to the human range of 180 degrees
• A dog can hear sounds 250 yards away that most people cannot hear beyond 25 yards
• Dogs have twice as many muscles for moving their ears as people
• The average dog's mouth exerts 150 to 180 pounds of pressure per square inch. Some dogs can apply up to 450 pounds

Interesting Puppy Facts - General and Anatomy

• More than five million puppies are born every year in the United States
• A puppy is born blind, deaf and toothless
• During its first week 90% of a puppys time is spent sleeping and 10% eating
• A puppy is only able to crawl during its first week
• A puppy begins to see when it is between 2 to 3 weeks old
• During the ages of 3 to 7 weeks a puppys first teeth, or milk teeth will appear
• At the age of 3 weeks a puppy will develop its sense of smell
• A puppy will sleep for 14 hours every day
• A puppys adult teeth start to come through between 4 and 8 months when it starts to chew everything!
• Some dogs reach sexual maturity at the age of eight months
• A puppy is considered and adult at the age of one year. At this age it is as physically as mature as a 15 year-old human

Interesting Canine Facts - The Origins of Dog Phrases & Expressions

• The expression "three dog night" originated with the Eskimos and means a very cold night - so cold that you have to bed down with three dogs to keep warm
• The phrase "raining cats and dogs" originated in 17th Century England when many dogs and cats drowned during heavy downpours of rain and when rivers burst their banks. Their bodies would be seen floating in the rain torrents that raced through the streets giving the appearance that it had literally rained "cats and dogs"
• The term "Dog Days" dates back to Roman times, when it was believed that Sirius, the Dog Star, added its heat to that of the sun from July 3 to August 11 and created exceptionally high temperatures. The Romans called the period "dies caniculares"  or "Days of the Dog."

History Of Dogs

The History and Evolution of Dogs

The Evolution of Dogs - Is Man's best friend really a descendent of tamed wolves? - The Facts!

 Biologists have debated over the history and evolution  of the domestic dog for hundreds of years. Most Scientists now agree that dogs are directly descended from Canis Lupus - the Grey Wolf.
Dr. Robert K. Wayne, canid biologist and molecular geneticist at UCLA, has shown, through DNA research, that dogs are more closely related to the Grey Wolf than Biologists had previously suspected. In fact, due in large part to Dr. Robert K. Wayne's genetic research, the authors of the "Mammal Species of the World" the internationally accepted reference source on mammal species, reclassified the dog in 1993 from Canis Familiaris to Canis Lupus.

The Evolution Dogs from Wolves - How could Wolves be tamed and Why?

We will never now exactly why or how wolves were tamed by man, but remains of dogs dating back 10 to 15 thousand years have been found, so we at least have a "ball-park" figure of when which helps to build a picture of the History and Evolution of dogs. The wolf and man had several important things in common, we were both hunters and also hunted in packs. It is certain that during our history our paths would have regularly crossed, we would have even hunted and eaten each other! The most likely scenario is that a human hunting party came across a very young Wolf Cub and decided to take it with them. The Wolf Cub would have been very puppy like at an early age, when grown although far less trustworthy than a dog of today, would not have been quite as dangerous as a wild Wolf. A semi-tamed Wolf would probably have had considerable value to a hunter gatherer group, lending its superior hunting senses to the group. This would have helped not just in hunting but defensively as a warning system as well. The evolution of the wolf to the domestic dog began.

The Evolution of the Domestic Dog - Selective Breeding Process

Puppy rescue would not have been an isolated case but would have happened in many different groups of human hunters over our thousands of years of evolution and history. Selective breeding would have been automatic. Keeping a wolf that became overly aggressive towards the humans, or of little practical use, would have been both pointless and dangerous - such a wolf would have been killed. Only the remaining Wolves, with desirable traits, would have been selected to breed. Eventually the traits of each group of tame Wolves would reflect the needs of the group of humans it lived with: it's size, colouring, senses and even the length of its coat or swimming ability reflecting the needs of the hunters and their environments. Eventually as the number of humans increased some degree of trade would have occurred between groups, puppies being swapped and traded based on the inbred traits they now possessed - the evolution and history of various dog breeds are explained.

How did dogs impact Human History? - The Evolution of the Different Breeds of Dogs

Understanding the changing requirements of man through our history and evolution enables us to put into perspective the hundreds of different breeds which were developed by man. The Groups, Classifications and Standards all begin to make perfect sense. The various 'landmarks' of the history and evolution of dogs is detailed below - for more details of each particular type of dog please refer to the links at the top of the page.

The Evolution & History of Dogs - The Sight Hounds

Sighthounds , also known as Gazehounds as their gaze focuses on the horizon seeking game, specialise in hunting their quarry by sight rather than scent. Sighthounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for their purpose. Sighthounds have extremely good vision. They also have a long jaw and lengthy neck which assists them in sighting their quarry. Their lean muscular body, deep chest and long powerful legs essential assets when following any fast and agile prey.

Dogs History - The Scent Hounds

Scent Hounds specialise in following the scent or the smell of its quarry. It was not necessary for Scent Hounds to be as fast and agile as Sighthounds - they do not need to keep their quarry in sight. Scent hounds are built for endurance. They can follow a scent for long distances and even across running water. Scent Hounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for their purpose. They have large noses which have deep, open nostrils and their lips are loose and moist, designed to pick up scent particles and follow the trail of an animal. Their ears are long which concentrates the scent on the nose. Their bodies are designed for endurance, an essential asset when following any scent trail.

Dogs Evolution & History - The Hound Dog Breeds

Hound Dogs have been bred to chase (or hound) a quarry by sight or smell, or a combination of both senses. Sighthounds have exceptional eyesight, combined with the speed and stamina necessary to catch the intended prey once seen, typical examples being the Greyhound and the Whippet. Hounds which rely strongly on the sense of smell to follow the trail of a prey, such as the Bloodhound, quite literally follow their noses, speed and eyesight is of less importance.

The Evolution & History of Dogs - Working Dog Breeds

Dogs in the Working group, were developed to perform a wide variety of tasks, such as herding, droving, pulling, hauling, herding, hunting, rescuing and guarding. The very nature of many of these tasks require a big, strong dog. Working dogs have always been viewed as real assets to their owners and have worked with man replacing larger animals such as horses when none such animals were available.

Dogs Evolution and History - Sporting Dog Breeds  - Retrievers, Pointers and Setters

Sporting Dogs hunt by air scent, as opposed to ground scent. The Retriever, Pointer and Setter dogs were bred selectively which resulted in them fulfilling the needs of man. Retriever dogs find and return killed game to the hunter. Some Retrievers are especially equipped, for instance with a water-repellent coat and webbed feet, for retrieving downed waterfowl. Pointer dogs stand in front of their quarry, with their nose and body rigidly still , thus directing (or pointing) the hunter to its location. Setter dogs were originally trained to set, or crouch, in front of game preventing the escape of the quarry. The hunter would make the capture with a net. Man's own evolution and development in technology moved the traditional hunting methods away from primitive tools and nets - the Sporting Dogs were then called the Gundogs.

Dogs History and Evolution - The Terrier Dog Breeds

Dogs in the Terrier group were developed to hunt and kill vermin. The vermin included control rats, mice and other predatory animals such as foxes that might raided a farmer's produce and livestock. The very nature of these tasks required an energetic, tenacious, brave and determined dog.

The History of Dogs - The Non-Sporting Breeds

The characteristics and features of Non-Sporting Dogs cannot be generalised. Each breed would have originally have been introduced and strengthened by breeding with animals who already demonstrated the desired traits. As times, fashions and societies changed man established the need for breeds to assist in what was once considered entertainment such as bull or bear baiting or performing in a circus.

The Evolution & History of Dogs - Toy Dog Breeds

The Toy dogs were initially owned by the wealthy and were viewed by others as status symbols - a luxury item with little apparent purpose. The trend continue to this day. The references to Toy and miniature dogs are slowly being exchanged with references to Teacup dogs - a cute and descriptive name which is ideal for marketing this diminutive type of dog.

The History & Evolution of Dogs - Dog Shows

Man's passion and pride in his dog led to the desire to show his dog and compare it to other breeds. The organised dog shows were therefore born in the middle of the 19th Century. The dogs were unidentified except for their kennel names! This led to real confusion - there were quantities of dogs with the same names - Rover, Spot etc which were insufficiently described according to their breed or type. Organisation was required - descriptions and breed standards were needed - the Kennel Clubs were born!

The Evolution & History of Dogs - The Modern Domestic Dog

The history and evolution of the various dog breeds still continues today. New uses are being found. The technology and the innovation of the Space Age led to the Russian Space dogs (please refer to the category and link at the top of the page on Famous dogs for more details) Dogs have even become Movie Stars. What will be the next step in the History and Evolution of Dogs?